My mother and I sat on
a dusty bench in the Port Said railway station. It was mid-morning,
and the sun was already hot. I was six-years-old. I sat
clutching my mother's hand and wondered at all the confusion and
commotion going on around us. My bewildered mother nervously
adjusted her print dress and with a wrinkled handkerchief dabbed
at the beads of perspiration around her eyes. It was humid and
sticky, and we were very tired after a long and fitful journey
that began almost a month ago in Inglewood, California. Our two
large battered footlockers rested next to the bench. I fidgeted
with the padlocks.
"Where are we
going now, Mama?" I asked.
"We're going to
Cairo on the train," my mother replied. "I wonder
where the others are? It's getting late, and they should have
been here by now. I don't understand this! The train is about to
leave. We certainly can't leave without them," she urgently
stammered. My mother was growing more anxious. Our traveling
companions had not arrived. We had taken the first available
taxi from the port area, and the others were to follow. Time
passed. The train was quickly filling up. Where were they?
"Mama, the train
is full. Look at all those people," I said.
The railway station was
crowded with people, strange noises and smells. Street vendors
plied their trade as they wandered the length of the platform
yelling and hawking food and drink to the passengers leaning
from the train windows. They traded in strange tongues for the
sticky pastry covered in flies. Steam billowed around the legs
of the porters carrying trunks on their backs and bundles of
bedding on their heads. Amidst the dust and steam, people pushed
and shoved their way onto the train. It was swarming with
bodies. They clung to handrails and tried desperately to climb
on the roof of the cars. They didn't have enough money to buy
tickets.
Soon, a soldier arrived
with a long stick, which he wielded above his head. He yelled
and beat the side of the train with the stick. People jumped
from the train's landing and fell from the handrails as the
soldier whacked them across their backs and legs. They tried to
protect themselves from the long thick stick as they ran away
along the platform with the soldier in hot pursuit.
We had reached Port
Said that morning and disembarked from the Swedish hospital
ship, S.S. Gripsholm. The ship had been used by the
International Red Cross to ferry the wounded during the war. She
was a beautiful ship, all white with big red crosses painted on
both her port and starboard sides. We had set sail from New York
about three weeks earlier and were on our way to the Persian
Gulf. Our first port of call was Naples, but we couldn't go
ashore because of a communist insurrection that was taking place
in the city. It was part of the many post-war traumas that were
taking place in Europe after the fall of Nazi Germany only the
month before.
At night, as I lay in
my bunk with the portholes battened down and nobody allowed on
deck, I could hear small arms fire pinging off the side of the
ship. My mother was terrified and winced as the shells
ricocheted off the ship's bulkhead. We had been in port for two
days but couldn’t go topside least somebody might be hit with
a stray round. It was hot and oppressive in the lower decks with
no ventilation. The ship's steward brought us a small
oscillating fan. It didn’t do much good to ease our sweltering
discomfort, but it was better than nothing. I stripped down to
my underwear and tried to stay cool. We took on water and fuel
as fast as possible and left Naples. We steamed to Athens, and
it was there that I saw first hand the devastation that war had
brought to Greece.
The port was in
shambles. Wrecked ships were scattered in disarray throughout
the harbor and gave testimony to fierce fighting that had raged
in this very old city. They silently rested on their rusty
sides, some with only their sterns or bows showing above the
water line. The hulk of a scuttled German submarine was beached
very close to where we were tied up. It was a sad reminder of
what had taken place during the last two years of the war. I
remember a subdued silence that seeped from the wrecks. It was a
vast graveyard of twisted rusting hulks. I was an intruder in a
watery tomb.
We were the first
contingent of American wives and children to join their men in
the Middle East after the war in Europe was over. The war in the
Pacific still raged on. My father had left for Arabia in 1939
when I was eighteen-months-old. The war broke out, and he was
cut off and isolated in Saudi Arabia with no way to get out or
get home. I didn't know nor did I remember my father. I was now
six-years-old, and my father to me was a snapshot in the family
album. Our group consisted of 13 wives and two children. Some
were bound for Bahrain Island, and the rest of us were going on
to Saudi Arabia.
Our traveling
companions finally joined us. A tall black man with a white
turban and long flowing robe was in charge of our group. He
shouted orders in Arabic to the porters. They scrambled over the
platform, hoisting trunks and suitcases over their heads as they
made their way toward the train. We climbed aboard, but the
cases, trunks and footlockers were too big to pass through the
railcar doors so in through the windows they came. Everyone was
shouting orders as the porters pushed and pulled on the luggage.
The other passengers joined in, screaming instructions in Arabic
to the porters outside the train. Our group shouted orders in
English from inside the train. Chaos ensued, but somehow the job
got done.
I leaned out of the
window as the train lurched forward, stopped and then lurched
again. We were moving. The platform slid by as we gathered
speed. Clouds of smoke and cinders started coming in the window
openings. My mother tried to close my window, but there wasn't
any window to close, just a gaping hole where glass used to be.
It was the same for all the windows. The smoke and the cinders
poured into the car, but it didn't bother any of the other
passengers, only the American wives. They sat with handkerchiefs
covering their noses and mouths and flailed away at hot cinders
landing on their dresses.
I was delighted with
the train. It rocked and shook and swayed its way toward Cairo.
I saw camels and donkeys in the fields as we passed into the
Nile delta. The trip took about five hours, and we arrived in
Cairo covered in soot, grime and ashes. My face was black with
soot because I had insisted on hanging out of the window while
my mother clung to my belt lest I plunge from the train. What a
trip! Until we reached Port Said, everything about this
adventure had been well organized and structured. That was not
to be the case from now on.
We arrived in Cairo,
and after much fanfare and confusion with porters and
transportation, our entourage was deposited at the Mina House
Hotel. Our stay in Cairo was to be for only a few days while the
formalities of further travel were arranged. The hotel bustled
with British military personnel, who took little notice of our
vagabond group and least of all a six-year-old lad.
Over the next couple of
days, we had a wonderful time visiting the Pyramids and the
Sphinx. We got to ride camels and donkeys and had our pictures
taken. Very close to our departure date, my desire for further
excitement became overpowering, and I decided to explore Cairo
on my own. That event is memorable to me because it was the day
that I went AWOL from my mother.
I awoke very early that
beautiful morning, put on my clothes, filled up my GI canteen
from the bathroom sink, buckled it around my waist, and went out
to face the day. My mother slept as I quietly closed the heavy
bedroom door. I made my way down the broad, marble, winding
staircase and out the front door.
The city was teeming with people and excitement as I
bounded into the dusty city streets and made friends with all
the street hawkers. They fed me ice cream, fresh strawberries
and sweet candy cakes. One of them gave me his Fez and a fly
whisk. I wandered through the alleys of shops full of spices and
gold. People pushed past me going in different directions. My
eyes were full of wonder as I ambled on for what seemed hours,
not knowing where I was going and not really caring. I had never
seen anything like it, and it was fun.
Somehow, I found my way
back to the hotel about mid or early afternoon. My mother was
furious. As I walked up the long flight of steps to the front
door of the hotel, she descended upon me. The next thing I knew
she had me firmly by the arm leading me briskly through the
lobby on our way to the room. My feet never touched the floor. I
was air-born. We cleared the lobby in what seemed like seconds,
and my mother was seething with fear and anger as she wrestled
me into the elevator. When the elevator door closed, and we were
alone, I thought that my life was going to end then and there in
Cairo!
"Young man, where
have you been? Don't you ever do anything like that again. We've
had the military police looking for you. Everybody has been
looking for you. What do you mean running off like that? I'm a
nervous wreck, and I've been sick with worry," she scolded.
I was exiled to our hotel room until dinnertime, but by the time
dinner became a topic of conversation, I was beginning to feel
ill. It got worse until in the early morning hours, it was
apparent that I needed a doctor. A British military doctor was
resident in the hotel and very kindly paid me a visit.
"Madame, your son
is a very sick boy. He has an acute case of dysentery, a result
no doubt, from his adventures earlier today. There's no telling
what he has consumed. I am arranging for him to be transported
to your American medical personnel at Payne Field. There he will
get all the medical attention he needs. I'm afraid that it is
quite impossible for him to proceed with the others. He's much
too ill and beginning to suffer from dehydration. He should be
fit to travel within seven to 10 days if all goes well."
I didn’t understand
what the doctor meant when he said, "if all goes
well." But, I did understand that my continuing trip with
the group was going to cease. I was sick, and I secretly hoped
that my mother was feeling extremely guilty for having been so
angry with me. I wasn't so sick that I couldn't feign the pains
in my stomach with extra facial contortions and painful grimaces
-- anything to switch my mother's feelings from anger and fear
to sympathy and guilt.
So, off we went to
Payne Field Hospital in an olive drab military ambulance with a
big red cross on the side. My mother remained with me at the
hospital while our group proceeded to their final destination.
It took a few days of medical attention before I started to feel
better, but once on the road to recovery, I was treated like a
king. The entire staff was the U.S. Army Medical Corps, and they
hadn't been around an American child for years. I was fed ice
cream and cakes, and my bed was wheeled into the recreation hall
every night for the movie. I was given all the comic books I
could read and lots of rice pudding. I had become a celebrity
guest, but too soon, I was ready to travel. While I was
recovering, arrangements were made for my mother and me to
continue our trip as soon as the doctors gave the green light.
Soon, I was up and about and rapidly becoming anxious to get on
the road. One morning, the doctor gave the all-clear sign, and
we were off again.
Our mode of
transportation changed at this point, and I was now going to
embark on my first airplane. This was a real thrill for me -- a
real airplane that really flies!!! Our plane was an Army Air
Corps two engine C-47, with bucket seats that ran the length of
the fuselage facing inboard. This aircraft flew the milk run
from Cairo to Bahrain and back again with stops in Baghdad and
Basra. The other passengers were all American military. It was a
very long, tedious and rough flight. The plane was not
pressurized, so we flew at altitudes between 7,000 and 10,000
feet. Flying at
such a low altitude over a desert region in the summertime is
not a pleasant experience. My mother, I and many of the other
passengers were air sick for the entire trip with only two
reprieves, stops in Baghdad and Basra. The GI's were great to my
mother and me. They saw how sick we were, and they made a pallet
of blankets at the back of the aircraft, so we could lie down.
After having been ill in Cairo and air sick for so many hours, I
was very happy when we landed in Bahrain. Charlie Rodstrum,
Aramco's representative in Bahrain, met us at the airstrip.
"Claudine, Steve
doesn't know you're here. He thinks you're still in Cairo. Until
I was called this morning by Military Operations, we thought you
and Stevie would not be coming for another week or so. I tried
to contact Dhahran to get the message to Steve, but I couldn't
get through," he said.
My mother replied,
"Thank you for meeting us. It has been an awful journey; we
have both been very sick. May we go to a hotel? We both need a
cool bath and some sleep."
"We have rooms
ready for you at the Aramco House in Manama. I'll take you there
right now. I'm sure you're exhausted. That milk run trip from
Cairo has a terrible reputation. While you're resting, I'll call
Bahrain Petroleum Company and see if we can get you and the boy
on their launch to Al-Khobar. It leaves early tomorrow
morning," he said.
Later in the day, the
booking was confirmed. The Aramco House was an old, whitewashed
Arab structure built from coral rock called faroush, and, while
not being air-conditioned, it was cool inside. The ceilings were
very high to ensure good air circulation and were constructed
with mangoor matting and chundles imported from India. A large
ceiling fan turned slowly above me as my mother tucked me into
bed. She secured the mosquito netting around the bed and left
the room. My thoughts drifted back to our small apartment in
Inglewood, California that seemed so far away.
I thought about my friend Teddy who lived across the
street. I wondered what he was doing, and I wondered if he knew
where I was and what I had seen and done in Cairo. California
was a lifetime away. I was on an adventure that Teddy would
never understand, and it was only beginning.
The next morning was
hot and humid as we left the Aramco House and proceeded to
Manama port. The humidity hung in the air like a heavy wet
blanket that seemed to press the life and breath out of
everything it touched. The sea was flat and so calm, it looked
like a huge mirror slowly undulating toward the horizon. Our
launch sat dead in the water. Small needlefish suspended
themselves in the shadow of the stern. Nothing moved. It was hot
and hard to breathe, and there was no shade. We waited.
"I'll continue
trying to contact Dhahran. Our communication system is not very
reliable. Sometimes we can't speak to Dhahran for days at a
time. There's nothing to worry about. When you reach the
Al-Khobar pier, check in at the Aramco office. There's always
someone there. They'll be able to contact Steve, and it will
take him about 30 minutes to get to the pier," Mr. Rodstrum
instructed.
Our crew of two arrived
looking very smart in their white uniforms. They loaded our
footlockers onboard and commenced preparations to get underway.
After a few hesitant coughs of bluish white smoke, the engine
sputtered to life. We waited for an additional passenger. A
brightly polished sedan bounced its way down the wharf and
stopped by the launch. A tall thin Englishman stepped out. He
was dressed in white shorts, white shirt with epaulets, white
knee length socks, and white shoes. He had a white topee in his
hand. Mr. Rodstrum moved forward, and they shook hands.
"Ben, thanks for
allowing us to catch a ride on your launch. It is
appreciated," he said.
"Glad to
help," the gentleman replied.
"Ben, this is Mrs.
Furman and her son. She's making her way to Dhahran to join her
husband. The boy got sick in Cairo, and they had to stay behind.
They were traveling with the same group that arrived here about
two weeks ago. Her husband doesn't know they're here. He thinks
they're still in Cairo. Would
you assist to make sure she makes contact with her husband when
you reach Al-Khobar?" Mr. Rodstrum requested.
"I'd be happy to
help in any way. I'm pleased to meet you Mrs. Furman," he
replied.
We said our farewell to
Mr. Rodstrum, climbed onboard and sat down under a big white
canvas awning. We pushed off and slowly made our way out
of Manama harbor heading west to Al-Khobar. The 20-mile
crossing would take about four hours. Our English friend settled
down with a book. My mother nodded off in short catnaps while I
sat with the captain in the wheelhouse.
We had been out about
two hours when the captain called out that another launch was
heading our way. It was just a small dot on the horizon, but it
was heading toward us. I watched for awhile as the launch drew
closer. I became more curious, so I moved out of the wheelhouse
and went up to the bow holding onto the handrail as I went. I
watched very intently.
Soon, the approaching launch came into better view. A man was
standing on the bow of the approaching launch. As the launch got
fairly close, I recognized the man. He didn't recognize me
because I was supposed to be in Cairo.
"That's my dad. Hey,
dad. It's me, Stevie! Mom, it's dad," I yelled.
I waved my arms
frantically. I could see he was stunned. He looked at me, and
when it clicked, he started waving back. I ran to the back of
the boat.
"Mom, it's dad. I
saw him. He's coming for us," I exclaimed.
It was obvious both
captains were confused because the launches started circling
each other. My dad ran back into the wheelhouse of his launch,
and our English friend spoke to our captain. When it got all
straightened out, the boats came together. My dad jumped into
our launch and gathered my mother into his arms and gave her a
big mushy kiss. I stood by his side yanking on his trousers.
After a few minutes, he looked down at me. As I looked up, our
eyes met.
"Have you heard
that President Roosevelt died?" I blurted out.
He smiled, picked me up
and gave me a big hug. That is how I met my father in the
Persian Gulf on June 30, 1945.
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