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Having
returned from the Kingdom, four weeks in an abaya
and hijab, I am angry and frustrated. As an analyst
specializing in Saudi Arabia I knew much of what to
expect, thus covering and not being able to drive
were nonissues. Landing in Jeddah I dropped ten
degrees body temperature switching from linen to an
abaya. Four weeks later, I flew through to Atlanta
without removing my abaya, not only to test American
reactions but because it was comfortable and
practical. In Riyadh’s Bedu Souk I added a burqa
and realized, for the first time in my adult life,
men spoke directly to me rather than to a physique.
That is respect.
Having
completed my book on the Kingdom, I had been invited
to the Saudi American Interactive Dialogue in
Jeddah. Staying to gather material for a second
book, I met with people from all walks of life:
Rich, poor, mothers, working women; the highly
successful, the unemployed, royalty, Bedouin market
sellers, and those in between. I met with Saudis by
birth, Saudis by choice, and foreigners. I lived
with Saudi families, those with domestic help and
those without. All were open and eager to share
their opinions. I traveled freely across the
country, an “Arab” woman alone. Fed monumental
amounts of food in Saudi homes nightly, unable to
escape such generous hospitality, I never witnessed
men separate from women. In Riyadh I used a Saudi
friend’s office for a fortnight, was treated
equally and was privy to top-level business
discussions. Thus began my irritation.
I had
expected to return to the US, defensive posture
prepared. Since Sept. 11, I have tried in vain to
explain the Kingdom to a country reluctant to
understand or listen, have been the target of
attacks, and have had professional difficulty for
insisting on clarity on Saudi issues. It is
acceptable in the US to be anti-war, anti-Bush, or
support the Palestinians; it is not acceptable on
either side of the political spectrum to be
“pro-Saudi”. That is “sleeping with the
enemy” or “hero worship”. Little of Saudi
Arabia is covered in the West other than trade, oil,
and proclamations of reform. Sadly, within the
Kingdom and despite access to satellite television,
newspapers and the Internet, even Jarir Bookstore
has yet to catch up: Only travel and photography
books, or historical biographies of Gertrude Bell
and Harry Philby were available. Not permitting
political material available to a hungry public
belies logic at this stage.
I
experienced few inconveniences. Prayer time forces
the habit of pausing. Time passes differently in the
United States as we race from work to school to the
grocery store to after-school activities to dinner,
housecleaning and laundry, finally collapsing in
exhaustion having barely spoken to our children
eating in separate rooms at different times.
Families walk together along the Jeddah corniche,
flying kites or riding donkeys, barbecues permeating
the air — vastly different to the deafening
X-rated rap music that invades main streets in
America as teens cruise.
So why am I
angry?
During all
my conversations one question remained unanswered.
When asked, What makes you proud to be Saudi,
“being Muslim” or “being Arab” was as common
a reply as “being the home of the Two Holy
Cities”. One can easily define Palestinian anger,
Iraqi angst, or Syrian character, yet I received
nothing on Saudi national patriotism. Can you not
see?
For years
you have publicly apologized for comparatively low
levels of violence, lack of reform, or the slow pace
of change. Repeatedly I heard the despair and
cynicism blinding you to what is happening in front
of you: Palpable change, construction growth, new
institutions, reform efforts, and the mutawa. You
have much to be proud of, but your politeness and
kindness allows the West to trample you, naming you
a threat to “democracy” and the world.
You cannot
let this continue. Pre-empt the increase in
anti-Saudi hostility and stop re-emphasizing your
weaknesses. You are a dignified people, so take
pride in your country in action, not just spirit.
Explain to the world how you respect women, how safe
and free from crime you are, and how family takes
priority. Demand how the US, world leader in murder,
rape and domestic violence, dare accuse you of human
rights abuses. Ask how Americans can defend their
preferred method of capital punishment by
electrocuting women, minors and the mentally
handicapped. How, if democracy includes the export
of the largest pornographic industry throughout the
world, can they judge the Kingdom for its
restrictions? Why can a Saudi leave his wallet,
laptop and digital camera on the front seat of a
car, as I did, and return to find everything intact?
Americans live in gated subdivisions with security
alarms; child molesters roam free in every
neighborhood. Half empty compounds in the Kingdom
are triple barricaded, one Alkhobar compound
protected by five security walls and armored trucks.
Murderers don’t return to the scene of their
crime, so why such fear? Nuns, priests, Jewish
settlers, rabbis and Catholics cover their heads but
Saudi women are “oppressed” for such? Why
apologize for your rate of progress when it took the
United States two hundred years, until 1920, to
grant women the right to vote? American women are
paid seventy-five cents to the dollar compared to
men; the Prophet’s first wife was his employer, a
successful and powerful businesswoman.
Another
wife, Aisha, fought in battle alongside men, and
Islam forbids racism. How then did it take until
1963 after riots and protests before blacks were
granted civil rights, the end to segregation, and
freedom? Bias remains rampant and races still do not
mix freely.
Why can the
US government attack any Arab nation when not one
Arab state has ever threatened America? Is this
“democracy”? More importantly, is this what you
want?
Of course,
there is much to fix within the Kingdom. All regions
rise and fall. There is little difference in the
speed of bureaucracy between Saudi Arabia and Sweden
or France; ministers settle in to roles of
government power and have no desire for change.
You have a
ready-made group available for pressing issues: The
mutawa could be assigned to fine dangerous drivers
(intent to kill is haraam) or punish anyone seen
littering: It is a disgrace to the religion, the
environment and people’s health.
Globalization
and technology are here to stay, so as Muhammad ibn
Abdul Wahab brought reform for the sake of unity in
the eighteenth century, again use ijtihad
(individual interpretation) and contextualization to
unite for the sake of the Kingdom, Islam, and
national pride.
There is
indeed something enigmatic about the Kingdom of
Saudi Arabia — perhaps the people, perhaps the
history, perhaps the land. Had I the chance to stay
I would have searched until I found an answer. A
piece of my heart remained in the Kingdom. I can
only hope that I may soon return to find out why.
—
Tanya C. Hsu is the author of the forthcoming book,
“Target: Saudi Arabia”. She may be reached at TanyaHsu@mindspring.com
Reprinted
with permission of Arab
News..
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